History and Importance

Geosite of Tabas Citadel (Arg-e-Tabas) is one of the most important and distinguishing historical monuments of Tabas Geopark. According to historical evidence, the citadel dates back to pre-Islamic times, and it is also referred to as the ancient fortress. Tabas citadel was originally a small fort or enclosure where people took refuge during attacks and other emergencies and lived outside under normal circumstances. Tabas Citadel has been damaged and restored many times over the years and under different events. In many historical texts, including the book Futūh al-Buldān (the best-known work by the 3th century Persian historian), the fortress of Tabas or the citadel of Tabas and its enclosure are mentioned. Also, this citadel has received many prominent historical and important personalities over time. Nasir Khusraw (famous Iranian philosopher and poet) who was the guest of the ruler of Tabas, Amir Gilaki bin Mohammad for seventeen days and nights in 444 AH (fifth century), says this about Tabas in Safarnama, an account of his travels: Tabas is a dense city, and although it is similar to a village with little water and less agriculture, there are date palms and orchards. The ruler of that city was Gilaki bin Mohammad, who was a powerful, and the people there were very safe and comfortable. They did not lock up the houses at nights, and animals were left in the streets, although the city did not have walls. No woman should dare to talk to a stranger man, and if they did, both would have been killed. There were no thieves or crimes because of his justice. From what I saw in Arabs and Persians, I saw four positions of justice and security, one in the plain during the days of Lashkar Khan, the second in Deilamestan during the reign of Amiran Jastan ibn Ibrahim, the third in the days of Al-Mustansir Bellah Amir al-Mu’minin {in Egypt}, and the fourth in Tabas in the days of Amir Abolhassan Gilaki bin Mohammad. In terms of safety and security, I did not see or hear about any other place like these four. Also, Von Pozer, a German merchant and tourist, visited the Tabas Citadel in 1621 AD and mentioned it as a royal piece. In the book of Ahsan al-Taqasim by Al-Muqaddasi (fourth century AH) it is stated: Tabas has a date fort and is similar to a peninsula. Its bazaar is small and its great mosque is good. They drink from water reservoirs fed by open Qanats, and I saw nice baths there. According to the above sentences in this book, not only the citadel refers to the history and ancient civilization of Tabas, but also the presence of bazaars, baths, reservoirs, and other symbols of urban civilization can be a proof of the ancient and historical status of this city.

The Structure of the Citadel

Tabas Citadel has a rectangular structure that includes towers, high walls and the entrance of the building. This citadel had 9 towers, the tallest tower of which is known as Nader Mirza. The name reflects the imprisonment of Nader Mirza (original name: Prince Mohammad Nader Sultan Mirza; son of Shahrukh Shah, the fourth king of Afsharid dynasty), who was imprisoned in this fort by the order of the ruler of Tabas, Amir Mohammad Khan. First the entrance corridors and vestibules were formed inside the citadel, and then alleys or passages surrounded the building, followed by houses built around five small and large courtyards. The entrance of the citadel is connected to an entrance arch, a strong door, a corridor, and then three corridors after reaching a vestibule. The corridors on either side seem to have been constructed for horses and cattle, and the middle corridors, consisting of two rooms, were allocated to people to cross. The five courtyards in this ancient fort are in fact the courtyards of five houses, which are very similar to the courtyards and houses of Tabas. There is not enough information about the name and function of different parts of the citadel, but is believed that an underground road connected the citadel to Qal-e-Bagh, which was a garden used by the ruler of Tabas, and a horseman could cross it. The walls of the citadel with a height of about 15 meters were much taller than they are today, and there were moats around the building that have been filled over time. Definitely the original center of Tabas is the citadel around which the oldest historical monuments and buildings can be seen. Although the city was developed according to the necessity of each period, and buildings were built outside the city walls, the ancient citadel has been the core of the city.

Before the Tabas earthquake, about 60% of the Tabas citadel building was intact, and its only inhabitant was an old man named Agha Seyed Ali Mirza. He was buried under the rubble of the citadel in Tabas earthquake of September 1978 and the complete destruction of the city. Then his almost intact body was found after 24 years during the reconstruction of the Citadel. His tomb is inside the Citadel and reminds the old history of the city and its Citadel. Today, Tabas Citadel, as a manifestation of ancient civilization in this region of Iran, is a very important and significant point in the physical body of the city and is a special symbol for the city of Tabas in various respects, giving the city character and identity and reminding of the ancient past which has joined the legends. Tabas Citadel has been registered as one of the national monuments of Iran with the registration number of 2305.

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